“O Captain! my Captain! Our fearful trip is done;
The ship has weathered every rack, the prize we sought is won;
The port is near, the bells I hear, the people all exulting
While follow eyes the steady keel, the vessel grim and daring…” -Walt Whitman

I couldn’t pass up a chance to throw in some Whitman. The ship in this poem is supposed to represent America (the “Captain” is Abraham Lincoln), but for the sake of this blog post we can pretend that he was talking about craft beer.

The craft beer movement is a strange and wonderful phenomenon, one that continually defies the odds. Take for example the fact that despite overall beer sales declining this past year, sales of craft beer in particular went up by about 16% according to most sources (CNBC claims 17.5%), with new breweries seeming to open up every day all over the country. Weathering the storms of a shaky economy and other troubles (like the recent ABCC fiasco), craft brewers continue on towards that dream on the horizon, combining the best aspects of small local business and a collaborative, do-it-yourself attitude. Which brings me to the beer in question: Ballast Point’s Victory At Sea.

The first time I tried this, I was floored (not literally, though it does pack a punch). It’s an imperial porter brewed with coffee and vanilla extract for a velvety, just-sweet-enough concoction that will keep you on your toes. It has a great depth of flavor and strength (it weighs in at 10% abv), but is exceptionally well-blended with roasty undertones and coffee bean flavors taking a back seat to rich chocolate and vanilla. The coffee beans come from San Diego-based Caffe Calabria, one of the finest coffee roasters on the West Coast, who advocate sustainable practices and a community-oriented business approach.

In a sea of beers and breweries, integrity and quality will always win out in the end, and Ballast Point is at the top of their game. This is a seasonal brew, which means that it won’t be around for much longer, so grab Victory while you can.

While out with some friends at a pub in Cambridge recently I ordered a Brooklyn Brewery Black Chocolate Stout, a highly sought-after product at the liquor store and a personal favorite of my own for its ability to help take the edge off those dark winter months.  One of my cohorts thought the brew sounded like the perfect choice to finish off the cold night, but was shocked by how thick and intense it was (and by the 10% abv).

If you tuck into this beer expecting a Hershey’s Milk Chocolate Bar in a glass, you’re going to be surprised when you find how wonderfully rich, dark, and exotically luscious it actually is.  This is a beautiful example of an Imperial Stout, a style once brewed exclusively for Catherine the Great, herself; and this beer fit for greatness is a seasonal release from Brooklyn, so give it a try before it’s all gone!

Another knock-out Chocolate is Southern Tier’s Choklat Stout, an Imperial Chocolate Stout which traces its roots to an ancient Mayan beverage of the gods called xocoatl (ch-co-atle).  Available in 22oz bombers and 1/6 kegs upon special request, this gem from western New York is sure to wash away even the worst case of the winter blues.  Weighing in at 10% abv and pouring a deep dark black in the glass, this brew will turn even the most adamant hater of flavored beer into a believer with its rich chocolate and caramel malts.

Afraid of the dark?  If these deep dark stouts are making you shake in your winter boots, never fear! Sam Adams Chocolate Bock is here!  While sadly not available in 6 packs (only available in the winter variety 12 pack), this creamy chocolate charmer is a real delight that appeals to the milk chocolate lover in all of us.  Slightly lighter and sweeter than the stouts, the chocolate bock manages to strike a delicate balance between strength and finesse making it an impeccable wintry nightcap.  And if you’re in the mood to try something really different, check out Sam Adam’s new Chocolate Chili Bock “The Vixen,”  brewed with cinnamon, chilies, and cocoa nibs (available in single pints.)

Chocolate stouts (and bocks!) pair perfectly with a wide variety of deserts including cheesecake, fruit pies and tarts, ice cream, and anything chocolate-based.  Or, try sipping a chocolate brew alongside your favorite strong cheeses and watch it work its magic!

Whether you’re trimming the tree, sitting by a fire waiting for the electricity to kick back on, enjoying desert with loved ones, or just craving a nice refreshing something to sip on, chocolate brews are surprisingly versatile and satisfying.  They have a way of mesmerizing me with their decadence; They found their way into my heart and–if you let them–they could warm your’s this winter, too.

“There is nothing cool about screwing up this badly and we know it. Maybe we can sue our own sorry selves. There is no joy in our hearts this holiday and the best we can hope for is a quick and merciful end. F*@& us.”

To make it up to the beer-loving public, they managed to put together a replacement brew this season, called “Lagunitas Sucks” Holiday Ale. Being the forgiving type, I decided to give it a try. At 7.85% abv, it’s extravagantly hoppy, but it steers clear of any bitterness with clean flavors of grapefruit, pineapple, and tropical fruit notes. It’s made with a complex medley of barley, rye, wheat, and oats, all generously dry-hopped for the big aroma and resinous hop flavors. It’s not what you would expect for a holiday beer (which usually lean towards spicy and dark), but as an apology it works wonders. I love Brown Shugga, but this holiday ale more than makes up for not releasing it this year, and the fact that they basically threw it together at the last minute is impressive in itself.

So rather than being disappointed this holiday season, I’m instead reminded why I like Lagunitas in the first place. Their IPA is always a welcome sight on tap, and their limited release offerings like Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ and Lucky 13 are consistently excellent. This new holiday ale is a testament to the success of the Lagunitas Brewing Company in brewing top-notch beers, and it makes me hope that they screw up more often in the future. I mean that in the nicest possible way.

Maybe I’m just a sucker for art, but in my eyes the 21st Amendment Brewery can do no wrong. Their boxed-craft-beer-in-a-can approach transcends novelty, it’s just a smart, environmentally friendly way of doing things, and the artwork on their packaging almost overshadows the beer inside (even though the beer is almost always excellent).

Their most recent release, just in time for Veteran’s Day, is their Allies Win the War! Ale, a collaboration between 21st Amendment (based in San Francisco) and Ninkasi Brewing (from Oregon). At 8.5% abv, it’s an amber ale brewed with dates, with hops that provide some orange blossom notes and a mild piney bitterness, which meld with sweet caramel malts and some background dark fruit flavors to give it a slightly creamy mouthfeel. There’s nothing really mind-blowing in terms of flavor, but it’s very balanced and tasty, so much so that you almost don’t realize how strong it is.

The thing that I like most about the 21st Amendment Brewery is that they always produce solid, interesting beers, but they don’t try too hard to push limits. I think that a lot of craft beer lovers are kind of jaded these days, what with all of the specialty beers and limited-release spectacles meant to take beer into strange new places. Craft beer shouldn’t be about shock and awe, it’s about winning hearts and minds. When innovative brewers work together in the name of art and great beer, everybody wins.

Their first limited-edition release, the Five Mile Stock Ale, uses ingredients from several local sources; the Marini Farm in Ipswich, Valley Malt and Czajkomsky Farm in Hadley, and hops from their very own hop yard in Ipswich. At 6.4% abv, it’s on the malty side, but with a nice, fruity hoppiness in the background from being dry-hopped with the locally-grown Cascade hops. Cascade hops tend to add a flowery, citrusy grapefruit flavor, but here it is pleasantly subdued by the malt profile for a mild, easy-drinking beer that tastes like a cross between an IPA and an Oktoberfest-style lager. It’s a beer that manages to strike a good balance while remaining flavorful and original, and it helps to support local farms. I’d call that a win.

All of the beers in the 5 Mile series will be limited-edition, single batch brews, so get them while you can!

A relative newcomer, the Baxter Brewing Co. started distributing throughout Maine last year, and just recently became available in Massachusetts. The people at Baxter were quick to embrace the craft beer in a can movement, and are currently the only brewery in Maine to distribute their beers exclusively in cans. You might even say they’re a bit fanatical about it; their glassware is also in the shape of a can (I’m not complaining, it’s actually kind of awesome). Cans do have some significant benefits, in that they’re better for the environment (made from recycled aluminum), they preserve beer better (no UV light contamination), and they’re much more practical for the outdoors than glass bottles (because lets face it, if you’re in Maine, there’s a good chance you’re going to be in the woods at some point).

But enough about cans, the beer is what really matters, and Baxter doesn’t disappoint. I recently spent some time up in Maine, and Baxter’s Pamola Xtra Pale Ale was on tap pretty much everywhere, and for good reason. At 4.9% abv, it starts off with some sweet, bready malts, which are backed up by a slight grassiness and some citrusy, bitter hops in the finish. It’s a great session beer, and pairs excellently with food. The name, Pamola, comes from Baxter’s mascot: in local Native American folklore, Pamola was a thunder god with the head of a moose, the body of a man, and the wings and talons of an eagle, who was said to be the guardian of Mount Katahdin (the tallest mountain in Maine, and the endpoint of the Appalachian Trail). Easily one of the best mascots in craft beer, in my humble opinion.

Baxter’s Stowaway IPA is another solid offering, and seems to be wholly different from their Pamola Xtra Pale (which is impressive, because many breweries tend not to stray too far from a specific flavor profile). At 6.9% abv, it pours a burnt, hazy orange, and has a sweet malt backbone that is fleshed out with vibrant hops which produce flavors of tropical fruit, piney resin, and grapefruit, all with a crisp, clean finish. It tastes a lot like a west coast IPA with the touches of tropical fruit and the complex hoppiness, which makes sense because all five hop varieties used in this beer are from the Pacific Northwest.

Canned craft beer is always a welcome sight, and the people at Baxter clearly know what they’re doing when it comes to brewing excellent beers. Coincidentally, the Baxter Brewing Co. is going to be one of the featured breweries during the first annual Maine Beer Week, which is coming up in early November. For a solid week, small craft breweries in Maine will be hosting events and doing tap takeovers at various brewpubs and restaurants around the state. After seeing what Baxter has to offer, I’ll definitely be dodging some moose on the highway to check it out.

Based in Kansas City, Missouri, Boulevard offers an impressive array of styles, and they manage to achieve the trifecta of having great artwork on their labels, top-quality beers, and reasonable pricing. Their Smokestack Series is the first volley in Boulevard’s attempt at breaking into the New England craft beer market, and they aimed it squarely at Massachusetts. I feel honored. Massachusetts was chosen because of the ease with which craft breweries can enter the market here (with our focus on independent distributors and liquor stores, as opposed to chain stores in other states). We are now the only state on the east coast to which Boulevard distributes, and I can think of at least five reasons why that is awesome.

Their recently-released “Nommo Dubbel” quickly became a personal favorite of mine. It’s a Belgian-style Dubbel at 8.1% abv, brewed with molasses and spices, with a deep amber color and subtle notes of clove and banana. Cinnamon is the most noticeable of the spices, but it has an earthiness from the Belgian yeast and flavors of fig and a little molasses give it a semi-sweet, dry finish. Basically, it’s everything you could want in a beer for the fall season. Their “Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale” ranks among the best American imitations of a traditional Saison, with a hazy golden color and a fruity complexity that finishes long, dry, and spicy. At 8% abv, it’s surprisingly mild and easily drinkable, but with citrusy hops lurking in the background along with hints of lemongrass, and a kind of peppery spiciness to keep things interesting. “Long Strange Tripel,” another hard-hitter at 9% abv, is a rich-tasting, golden brew that is velvety smooth and almost creamy. Fruity yeast comes through with hints of pear, melon, and apricot, while herbal, grassy hops balance out the sweeter flavors.

Almost all breweries release a token IPA when entering a new market, but Boulevard decided to double down. Their “Double-Wide IPA” weighs in at 8.5% abv, tasting of caramel and toffee with lush, piney hops in back and subtly floral notes. A very well-rounded double IPA, for anyone looking for hoppy complexity without feeling like your taste buds are being assaulted. Speaking of assault, the “Sixth Glass Quadrupel Ale” is designed to pack a punch at 10.5% abv, with flavors of red grapes, some green apple, and raisin propped up with a caramel malt backbone, and a boozy aftertaste akin to rum or brandy. Big, chewy, and complex, you might be tempted to try for that sixth glass (I wouldn’t recommend it, unless you feel the need to get acquainted with the floor).

The Boulevard Brewing Company clearly has a lot to offer, not least of which is the only viable reason I can think of to want to visit Missouri. With all the love that people in Massachusetts have for great craft beer, I think it’s safe to say that Boulevard will be here to stay.

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A good place to start would be the Anderson Valley Brewing Co.’s Boont Amber Ale, the primary example of an American Amber. It’s very clean tasting at 5.8% abv, with soft caramel malts, a brush of earthy hops, and subtle flavors of apple and honey, with a faint spiciness. Based in Mendocino County, CA, the Anderson Valley Brewing Company has been brewing Boont Amber Ale for over 20 years, and it’s considered a classic in the craft beer world. Setting the precedent for amber ales that would come after it, it pairs exceptionally well with food and is well-balanced enough for any weather or palette.

The Dark Horse Brewing Co., based in Michigan, has an amber ale made especially for Belgian beer aficionados. At 5.5% abv, it’s another light-tasting, mellow brew with a twist of Belgian yeast. Some citrus orange flavor with a hint of cloves and spice give it a taste similar to a Belgian White or a Hefeweizen, but the caramel malts and dark amber color put it squarely in the realm of amber ales. If you’re looking for another excellent example of an innovative amber ale, then Troegs has you covered. Their Hopback Amber is amazing at 6% abv, with toasty, earthy hops and a sweet malty finish. Caramel, toffee, grapefruit, and piney hops all mingle together for a beer that is as flavorful as it is drinkable. The highly sought-after and widely praised Nugget Nectar from Troegs is actually a souped-up, imperial version of their Hopback, so obviously it’s a formula that works.

The last beer in this round-up is the Maine Beer Co.’s Zoe Amber Ale, a very hoppy take on the style at 7.2% abv. I don’t usually play favorites, and it may come off as naive, but I’m gonna say it: this is probably my favorite beer. If I were stuck on a desert island and I could only bring one beer with me, this would be it. It has the mellow background fruitiness of most amber ales, but with a robust, complex hoppiness that is unlike anything else out there. Enticingly bitter, but rounded off with orange, grapefruit and pine notes and a sweet, almost roasty caramel malt backbone. You just can’t nail this one down, and that’s why I love it. Plus, by drinking it, you just might save a whale. I should probably explain that. The Maine Beer Company is a member of “1% for the Planet,” meaning that 1% of all of their sales go towards an environmental non-profit. In this case the non-profit is Allied Whale, an organization that responds to marine mammal strandings along Maine’s coastline, in addition to operating a research station on Mount Desert Rock. A great beer from a great brewery, that just might have taken amber ales to the next level.

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It began at the end of last month, when the Idle Hands Brewery in Everett applied for a farmer-brewer license through the Massachusetts Alcoholic Beverage Control Commission (the ABCC for short). A farmer-brewer license enables small breweries to run their own distribution networks and make in-brewery sales to customers (usually through a brewpub or associated restaurant), without the requirement of a liquor license. The farmer-brewer license exists as an alternative to the much more expensive manufacturer’s license (which can cost up to $10,000, as opposed to the $500 farmer-brewer license). Under Massachusetts law, alcohol manufacturers are not allowed to sell directly to retailers and consumers, they have to go through a distributor, and they can’t serve alcohol on site (so no tasting tours or brewpubs). The farmer-brewer license has existed in Massachusetts since 1982, and since then “farmer-breweries” have been classified as those breweries that derive some of the ingredients for their beers from local and on-site sources (though it is not specified exactly how much).

The ABCC, for some unknown reason, decided that it was time to regulate, and suddenly passed a new rule that would require at least 50% of cereal grains and hops used by farmer-brewers to be locally produced. Not only was that figure unrealistic (and entirely uncalled for), but it would have forced small brewers to scramble to find vast quantities of brewing ingredients that are virtually unavailable to commercial buyers in Massachusetts. That, or be stripped of their license and lose their business. It should come as no surprise that almost immediately after news of this rule change went public, people in the brewing community were quick to take action against it, and just recently it was struck down.

It’s easy to make the assumption that there was a political motivation for these new regulations, because of the way that they would have hurt small brewers in favor of large manufacturers. But I’m not in the habit of pointing fingers, and besides, there’s no solid evidence that that was the case. Still, the idea that a regulatory body like the ABCC would propose something like this demonstrates either a fundamental misunderstanding of the business they are meant to regulate, or a reckless, misguided attempt at micro-managing. In the middle of all of this, a spokesperson for the ABCC said that the decision to change the rule was made in order to encourage farming in Massachusetts. The logic of this escapes me. In spite of the recession, small craft brewers have been a steadily growing segment of the U.S. beverage market, one which creates jobs and generates tax revenue, and craft brewers in our state have been a major part of this. So it seems odd, to say the least, that the ABCC would suddenly become farming enthusiasts.

Motivations aside, this strange move by the ABCC is important for several reasons. Even though it was quickly struck down thanks to the outcry from brewers and beer-lovers all over the country, the fact that it even happened in the first place makes Massachusetts seem suddenly hostile to small brewers, and could discourage people from starting brewpubs here. That picture up there is only a small sample of some of the breweries that would have been drastically affected or even put out of business if the new regulations hadn’t been reversed. The fact that the ABCC was so ready to enact a rule change that would have effectively destroyed these venerable businesses is cause for concern going forward.

The only real benefit of this whole fiasco with the ABCC comes in the form of a reminder. Just like with any vibrant, rapidly growing movement, the craft beer movement requires constant vigilance to stay that way. As the economy continues to flounder, and big-name brands like Budweiser and Coors continue to lose ground in the market to independent craft brewers, these kinds of shady moves by regulators are only going to become more common. In short, Massachusetts has a great craft beer culture, and it’s up to us to keep it that way by supporting local brewers.

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For me, it was love at first sip. Here’s a quick profile of the wine:

Color: Fuschia rim with a deep violet center.

Aroma: Very fragrant and fruit-forward with rich notes of lychee, brambly wildberry, and stewed fruit backed by light spice.

Taste: Echoes the nose. Firm yet gentle acidity brings a refreshing tartness to the palate.

Texture/Mouthfeel: Medium bodied; Silky smooth.

Finish: Decently long Cote du Rhone-like spice finish.

Jean Orliac began his career making these fabulous wines back in the 1970′s in Pic Saint-Loup, France when he came across a vacant piece of land nestled between two gigantic limestone cliffs he frequently climbed.  An agricultural engineer at the time, Orliac quickly realized the long-standing history of the site as a garden, or “Hortus” in Latin.  Gnarled old olive trees were overgrown by scraggly, abandoned grape vines and it was clear that centuries of people had lived there, battling the brush and scrub native to the Mediterranean landscape as they grew their food.

Orliac decided then that he would continue in that same age-old tradition and began raising winegrapes in the somewhat harsh scrubland of Pic Saint-Loup.  Somehow, almost magically, he and his team manage to create beautiful wines under a variety of labels including Le Loup dans la Bergerie, Domaine de l’Hortus, and Bergerie de l’Hortus– all without the use of synthetic pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers (the producer has always practiced organic farming and winemaking techniques and is in the midst of the long & in-depth certification process).  Both his land and the wines it produces with Orliac’s assistance are ”characterized by a complex balance.”

New to Andover Liquors this year is a delightful rosé from Bergerie de l’Hortus- Rosé de Saignée (roughly translated as “The Rosé of my Blood” or “The Rosé I have Bled”).  A light, easy-drinking blend of 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre, this rosé is the perfect summer companion to just about any culinary creation.  Here’s another skeletal review:

Color: Pale salmon.

Aroma: Nose shows ripe strawberries and fresh-picked violets.

Taste:  Vibrant, almost racy acidity is rounded by ripe strawberry fruit.

Texture/Mouthfeel: Light-bodied; Cool and refreshing with just a touch of spritz or effervescence.

Finish: Medium-length, almost herbaceous finish.

These two gems from Jean Orliac are among my favorite wines to wind down the summer with.  They are meant to bring us back to the mystery and wonder of forgotten childhood, to a time when dreams were important and our imaginations could run wild in the forest.

Jean Orliac’s wines are an attempt to marry wine with poetry.  They are refreshing yet complex, elegant yet affordable, and organic to boot;  It doesn’t get much better than that!  Cheers!

It pays to get involved…comment on our blog for a chance to win an Andover Liquors Gift Certificate! In order to be considered in our contest, the “rules” are simple. Pick a post, leave us your thoughts and sign your first and last name. It’s that easy…and you could win a $50 gift card, too!